Pet Care Resources: Newsletter

Americans are crowding the highways for summer vacation, taking their four-legged friends along for the ride. But before pet lovers hit the road, it's important to take their pets' needs into consideration.

Trips should be as close to your pet's normal routine as possible. If you've never traveled with your pet, start with very short, round-the-block trips before you put them in the car or truck for the long ride. Your veterinarian can give you some good advice and recommend ways to make your pet more comfortable.

For the safety of both you and your pet, it's best to travel with dogs and cats in pet carriers. In case of an accident, airborne pets are very prone to injury. Carriers are especially important for cats. Many cats will ride on your shoulder, on your head, or get under your feet. It's a potentially dangerous situation if you need to stop quickly and they are under the brake pedal.

Though keeping a pet "strapped down" for safety is important, people should not use standard safety belts on their pets. These belts are designed for human positioning. Dogs don't conform to human positioning with much success. However, there are canine "seat belts," which are actually harnesses that attach to the car's seat belts and may be used to hold dogs in place during the trip.

Owners should also plan for extra stops if pets accompany them on a trip. Because of stress, some cats don't eat or drink and won't need to use the litter box. But it should be provided for them, especially if it's your first trip with your cat. If they don't use it, take them out at rest stops on a leash and see if they'll go.

The number of stops depends on what your pet is used to. Most pets eliminate shortly after they eat. Therefore, if you can control when the food goes in, you can usually control when it goes out.

In terms of exercise, owners should follow their pet's normal schedule. If you take your dog for a 30-minute walk in the evening at home, take the dog for a walk in the evening at your destination. Also, exercising your dog before it gets into the car may make the trip more relaxing for both you and your dog.

Many pets enjoy getting out of the house, as long as it's not a trip to the veterinarian. But if you're planning to drive non-stop, or if you're taking a very short trip, it is probably best to leave the pets at home. Really think if it's necessary for a pet to go with you, or if you are just being selfish and want the pet for company. A trip can cause unneeded stress on an animal.

It is an especially good idea to leave pets at home if they have current health problems that may worsen on the trip. For instance, if a pet has had respiratory problems and the trip is in the mountains, it may be better to leave that pet at home. If you know what direction you're traveling on a long trip, choose towns along the way that have easy access to veterinarians. This is particularly important if your pet has had a recent illness or problems traveling in the past.

If you're concerned about the pet having motion sickness or getting car sick, talk to your veterinarian about a prescription for a tranquilizer or sedative to calm the pet before the trip. Before giving any type of medication, contact your veterinarian to make sure that it is safe.

Finally, it's a good idea to call ahead and make reservations with hotels, motels and campgrounds that accept and welcome pets. Take the necessary supplies, including plastic bags, to clean up after your pet at rest areas.

Going off to college?

Think carefully before getting a pet!

Going off to college is an exciting time. It can also be a lonely time for students who find themselves far from family and friends. Perhaps this seems like the perfect time to adopt a dog or cat.

Adopting a pet is a lifetime commitment. It is unfortunate that many people adopt pets without realistic expectations of the time, effort, and expense that is involved in caring for them responsibly.

If you already have a pet at home and are thinking of bringing him to school, if possible, give yourself at least one semester to determine if you'll be able to maintain quality pet care, despite the demands of being a full-time student.

Remember, few colleges allow pets in campus housing and finding a rental that permits pets can be quite a challenge.

If you really need a fur fix, why not volunteer at the local humane society? You'll learn all about the responsibilities of caring for a pet and be better prepared to assume those responsibilities when the time is right.

A puppy likes biting and chewing on almost anything that enters its world. Just as with jumping, biting between litter mates is their style of play. Biting also teaches them how to use their main hunting tool, their teeth. Unfortunately, this behavior often carries over into their interactions with the members of their new home.

Puppies have very sharp teeth and a bite or nip can hurt. Along with inflicting pain, a dog bite can be terrifying to small children.

There are several methods that are used to eliminate this unwanted behavior.

Holding the Mouth Shut
The simplest method for handling this behavior is to very, very quickly grab the puppy's mouth and hold it shut. While holding the mouth shut, say a single, stern "No" in a low tone. Holding the mouth closed is usually done by placing the thumb over the top of the puppy's nose and the fingers below the bottom of the jaw.

Holding the mouth closed for four to five seconds is sufficient and the puppy usually whines. Don't try to cause them pain; there is no need to firmly squeeze the mouth. After releasing the puppy's mouth, don't make any further fuss, but go on with whatever you were doing.

It will take a few sessions for the puppy to catch on, but the animal will soon put together the facts that the bite instantly causes his mouth to be held shut.

It's not recommended to bring children into this form of discipline. Children can get hurt or they can hurt the puppy.

Startle Response and Redirection
As soon as the puppy bites down, make a sudden, abrupt, high-pitched, loud "yelp" sound. This imitates the sound that a littermate would make if bitten by the puppy. This sound should be so sudden and sharp that the puppy is immediately startled and stops the behavior. If done correctly, the puppy immediately removes his mouth and looks bewildered. At that point, quickly substitute a toy (such as a ball) for the puppy to chew on.

This method redirects the puppy's biting behavior to the ball. The puppy learns that it is no fun to bite; however, chewing the toy is ok. It may be necessary to repeat this process several times during the puppy's play period. If the "yelps" make the puppy more excited, it's best to try another approach.

Stop the action immediately and dramatically leave the room when the puppy bites. This is certainly a method children can use. After multiple times the puppy will learn that every time she bites, she loses her playmate, and that's no fun at all.

Important! No matter what method you use, do not entice the puppy to bite you. Games like tug-of-war and waving your hands in front of the puppy may encourage him (or her) to bite.

The summer is made for lazing about in the sun and spending time outdoors, two activities cats love. But when the weather is warm, fleas are never far behind and as temperatures rise, it becomes increasingly important to protect your feline friend from hungry fleas.

Keeping fleas off your pet and out of your home is about more than just stopping your pet's constant scratching. Aside from itchy, irritating bites, fleas can cause the skin disease flea allergy dermatitis in both cats and dogs, as well as miliary dermatitis in cats. A single flea bite can trigger flea allergy dermatitis, which can lead to excessive scratching, hair loss and, potentially, a secondary bacterial infection. Miliary dermatitis consists of small bumps, called papules that eventually develop into crusts. Fleas can also transmit Dipylidium caninum, or double-pore tapeworm, a common tapeworm found in dogs and cats, as well as a number of other diseases.

Even if fleas aren't on your pet right now, they may be living in your home. There are four stages in a flea's life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. It is only during the adult stage that the flea actually lives on an animal; during the other three stages, the flea lives in the surround environment. Immature fleas usually account for about 90 to 95 percent of the total flea population in a home. A good rule of thumb is that for every flea you find on your pet, there are about 100 more immature fleas living in the surrounding environment.

The average flea can live for anywhere between 12 days and 180 days, though the typical lifespan of a flea lasts three to six weeks. But even in that short amount of time, an adult female can lay more than 1,000 eggs, which means that even only one tiny flea can result in big problems.

How can you tell if fleas have invaded your home and latched on to your dog? Scratching is the first sign. During feeding, fleas inject saliva into the skin of the animal; this saliva contains proteins that cause allergic skin reactions, which leads to bouts of rubbing and scratching. Fleas are most commonly found on cats around the base of the tail and on the head, neck and ears. If you suspect your cat has fleas but cannot see them, check for "flea dirt." This is the excrement of the flea and consists of a mix of feces and dried blood. To find flea dirt, have your pet lay on the ground and place a piece of white paper underneath him or her. Brush your pet and let the paper collect any dirt or debris. Next, add a few drops of water to the dirt on the paper; if dried blood is present, the water will take on a reddish color, indicating the presence of flea dirt.

During the last several years, significant improvements have been made to flea control products. Oral and topical medications containing insect growth regulators (IGR) and insect development inhibitors (IDI) disrupt the flea's maturation process and stop infestations before they begin. These treatments are less toxic for pets and the environment and more effective in controlling fleas.

Topical treatments are more effective than past products because they remain on the surface of the pet's skin, where they are toxic only to fleas, rather than absorbed into the pet's bloodstream. Below is a list of common flea control products available through your veterinarian. Flea control products designed for dogs should never be used on cats. Products containing pyrethrin- or pyrethroid-based chemicals can be dangerous and possibly fatal for your cat. Keep dogs and cats separate immediately after applying flea control products.

Advantage: Developed by Bayer, Advantage is a topical solution containing the active ingredient imidacloprid, which acts on the nervous system of the flea. Advantage stops biting fleas within three to five minutes of initial application and kills adult fleas within an hour. Advantage also kills flea larvae within 20 minutes of contact. Advantage should be applied monthly and is available only through your veterinarian.

Advantage Multi: This topical solution combines imidacloprid, the same flea-killing ingredient found in Advantage, with moxidectin, which prevents heartworm disease and treats and controls intestinal worms such as hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. Advantage Multi should be applied monthly in order to best control fleas and parasites and is available by prescription only.

Frontline Top Spot: A topical solution similar to the Frontline Spray developed by Merial in 1996, Frontline Top Spot provides protection from both fleas and ticks. The active ingredients are fipronil, which kills adult fleas on dogs. Frontline should be applied monthly and remains waterproof for 30 days.

Frontline Plus: This flea control product is similar to Frontline Top Spot but also contains methoprene, which disrupts the flea's maturation process by killing eggs and larvae. Like Frontline Top Spot, Frontline Plus provides protection from fleas and ticks for 30 days.

ProMeris: Developed by Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), ProMeris uses the active ingredient metaflumizone to kill and repel fleas. Metaflumizone causes neuron disruptions in fleas, resulting in loss of coordination, paralysis and death. ProMeris is available by prescription and should be used monthly for best results.

Revolution: Developed by Pfizer, Revolution prevents, kills and controls a number of parasites, including fleas and ear mites. Revolution is also effective in preventing heartworm disease and treating roundworm. Revolution contains selamectin. When applied, the drug enters the bloodstream through the skin; concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissue prevent heartworm disease, while concentrations in the skin protects against fleas and flea eggs.

Vectra: This flea control product is available in two forms, one for cats and kittens over 8 weeks of age and under 9 pounds, and another for cats weighing 9 pounds or more. The active ingredients in both are dinotefuran and pyriproxyfen which are effective in killing adult fleas and flea larvae. Vectra is a topical solution and should be applied monthly. It is available by prescription from your vet.

Degenerative Joint Disease (DJD) is a progressive disease that occurs in the joints of animals. It is not normal to the aging process; however, the condition affects about 15-20% of dogs over 8 years of age.

DJD results from injury to the articular cartilage, the smooth material covering the free surfaces of the bones in a joint. Normally this cartilage functions to reduce friction and helps absorb shock within the joint.

Trauma and aging are major contributors to cartilage destruction. Once the process begins, it cannot be reversed. The condition may occur in one or several joints. Treatment for the disease is primarily symptomatic.

DJD is often referred to as "osteoarthritis." This is not an accurate description, since osteoarthritis implies an inflammatory condition of the joint. DJD is not an inflammatory process.

Factors that lead to degenerative joint disease are listed below:

• Injury to the joint
  Example: fracture within the joint
• Instability of the joint
  Examples: hip dysplasia, ruptured anterior cruciate ligament of the knee
• Joint disease
  Example: Osteochondritis dissecans (OCD)
• Infection in the joint
  Example: penetrating wound

Symptoms

By the time the symptoms of DJD appear, considerable damage to the joint is already present. As the disease progresses, the symptoms intensify.

The most common symptoms of degenerative joint disease are lameness, joint pain, and stiffness. Lameness and pain are generally more pronounced after a long period of exercise.

The affected joint is often stiff after a period of non-use, such as right after awakening from sleep. This stiffness tends to improve after a small amount of exercise. Often, a grinding sound is produced when the affected joint is manipulated.

Your veterinarian can diagnose DJD. X-rays are often required to confirm the diagnosis, as well as to show the progression of the disease. When radiographic lesions are present, the disease has already progressed significantly. Very early in the disease, no X-ray lesions are seen.

At the present time, there is no treatment to reverse the process of degenerative joint disease. Most treatment regimes are based on rest, weight reduction, moderate exercise and medication. Your veterinarian can recommend the treatment that is best suited for your pet.

When it's time to give your dog a bath, you should be well prepared for the process. Not only is it important to have the know-how for bathing your pet, it is also important to be well organized.

Dogs are not similar to people and should only be bathed when they are dirty or when they need a flea or medicinal bath. Over-bathing removes the natural oils in their skin and fur, and can leave the skin dried out and flaky. Dry flaky skin very often results in scratching. Frequent bathing also reduces the coat's insulative and waterproofing capacities. However, certain dog breeds that are prone to skin conditions benefit from regular bathing. Cocker spaniels, for example, benefit when bathed every 6-8 weeks.

When selecting a shampoo, it's best to use a good quality shampoo that is specifically formulated for dogs. Don't use a human shampoo. They are not formulated for a dog's skin or coat. A conditioner (also formulated for dogs) is a good idea, particularly if there are tangles and lots of knots.

To start, the best place to bathe your dog is in the bathtub or in a utility tub. If you plan to bathe your dog outdoors, make sure your hose has both hot and cold water. A cold bath is not only disagreeable, but can also cause rapid hypothermia. Bathing indoors is a challenge; as all escape routes need to be considered.

The following are some basic guidelines for bathing your dog:

• Make sure that all your supplies are within reach before putting your pet into the tub. Dogs don't seem to remain in the tub very long when left alone. Your supplies should include shampoo, conditioner, scissors, several towels, cotton balls and a plastic container (for rinsing). If you are planning to clip the toenails, make sure that the nail clippers are also within reach.
• Clipping a dog's toenails often causes some bleeding. If bleeding occurs, a dab of Stypic powder (or another veterinary recommended powder) on the affected nail usually does the trick. Sometimes, several applications of the powder are necessary. If you are hesitant to clip your dog's nails, have it done at your local veterinary hospital or pet grooming salon.
• A rubber mat should be placed in the bottom of the tub so your dog's feet don't slide around, and so he or she will feel more secure and safe. Most dogs don't want to be there in the first place, so you need to make them feel as comfortable as possible.
• Place one or several cotton balls in each of your dog's ears. Don't push the cotton too far down the ear canal; however, it does need to remain securely in place. The cotton helps keep water out of his or her ears. A drop of artificial tears (placed in the corner of each eye) prevents the shampoo from irritating the eyes.
• Properly lift your dog in the tub, avoiding injury to both you and your dog. Place one arm in front of the dog's chest and one arm behind the rear legs, just under the tail. Make sure you bend your knees (not your back) when lifting, particularly if the dog is heavy. If your pet is too heavy to lift by yourself, always get help. Nothing hurts more than an injured back.
• Turn the water on slowly and adjust the temperature. The water should be lukewarm. Thoroughly wet his or her coat down with the spray hose starting from the back end moving forward. Then, begin lathering your pet. Work the shampoo into a thick, rich lather. If you are using flea shampoo, some brands recommend leaving it on for several minutes. Read the directions on the container and follow them carefully or the results may not be achieved. Lather the main body, stomach, legs, feet, and tail.
• Finally, pour a small amount of shampoo into your hands and gently lather the fur around the face and on the head. Be careful not to get the lather into your dog's eyes.
• When rinsing, start with the head and work towards the rear. Cover your dog's eyes with your hand and gently rinse off the top of the head and around the eyes. Then, gently cover your dog's nose and rinse off the rest of the face and neck. Next, work your way down the body, making sure to rinse out all of the suds and shampoo.
• If you are applying a conditioner, now is the time. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for applying the product. If a conditioner is applied, another rinse is probably necessary.
• Remove the cotton balls from his or her ears and gently squeeze any excess water from the coat.

The drying process is generally the part that dogs like best. Most dogs enjoy getting a vigorous rub down. To finish drying your pet, a hair dryer can be used. Never use a high heat setting and pay careful attention. Do not allow your dog to become overheated.

If you have questions about the type of shampoo, how often to bathe your pet, or whether or not to use a conditioner, don't hesitate to call your veterinarian.

The cat population in the United States is more than 75 million.

The average cat gets 16 hours of sleep a day.

Big cats can roar, but they cannot continuously purr. Small cats can purr, but they cannot roar.

A cat has 250 bones in his body, compared to 206 in our bodies. Think about how much bigger you are than your cat, and you'll understand why cats have a lot more places where they can bend and twist than we do.

A cat will almost never meow at another cat. Cats use this sound for their mothers and their human care-givers.

A domestic cat's sense of smell is about 14 times stronger than a human's.

A female cat can mate with more than one male when she is in heat, meaning different kittens in a litter may have different fathers.

The oldest cat on record was Puss, from England, who died in 1939 just one day after her 36th birthday.

Cats can make more than 100 different vocal sounds. Dogs can make about 10.

Cats purr at about 26 cycles per second, which is the same frequency as an idling diesel engine.

The nose pad of a cat is ridged in a pattern that is unique, just like the fingerprint of a human.

Cats seem to have an instinctive ability to find their way home; tests have shown that they use the earth's magnetic fields to navigate.

If cats could read, they would need reading glasses. That's because their close-up vision directly in front of them is fuzzy. Instead, they have super peripheral vision and can detect the slightest movement in prey that is yards away.

Pouncing is powered by a cat's thighs. These muscles are so powerful that if you had a cat's thigh muscles, your thighs would be as big as your waist and you could jump from the ground to the top of a house.

In the Siamese cat, a lower temperature causes more dark coloration in the growing hairs. This is why newborn kittens, warm from their mother's womb, are white all over. As they grow up in normal temperatures, the hottest areas of their body, around the stomach and back, remain pale in color, while their cooler extremities gradually become darker.

The domestic cat is the only cat species able to hold its tail vertically while walking. All wild cats hold their tails horizontally or tucked between their legs while walking.

Breeds that developed in cold climates, like the Siberian, Maine Coon Cat, and Norwegian Forest Cat, have slightly oily, water-repellent top coats and thick, insulating undercoats.

The taste buds on a cat's tongue are specialized to detect the amino acids in meats, but are less able than ours to detect the carbohydrates in plants and grains.

Cats have three blood types: A, B and AB. The majority are type A.

Cats have twice as many smell-sensitive cells in their noses as we do, which means they can smell things we are not even aware of.

A Spanish stamp commemorating Charles Lindbergh's record-breaking flight from New York to Paris showed his cat Patsy watching as his plane took off. Pasty often accompanied Lindbergh on his flights, but did not go on the 1930 flight that made him famous.

Humans and cats have a similar range of hearing when it comes to low-pitched sounds, but cats have a much greater ability to hear very high notes-better, even, than dogs.

Cats can judge within three inches the location of a sound being made one yard away. This is an essential skill for a predator who needs to catch a mouse hiding in tall grass.

More than 20 muscles in each ear enable a cat to move her ears like radar dishes and pinpoint the source of a sound. The two ears can rotate in different directions, as well.

Cats can compress or elongate their spine, making them smaller to sleep in snuggly places or longer to leap across wide open spaces.

In ancient Thailand, it was believed that when a very spiritual person died, their soul entered the body of a cat, and then ascended to heaven when the cat died.